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  #1  
Old 11-18-2009, 02:19 PM
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Default Quarantine Procedures

Rich has some input on this so I thought it would be a good thread for beginner to advanced "froggers."

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Old 11-18-2009, 02:52 PM
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:08 PM
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What is the best way to quarantine?
How long should you quarantine to be sure that they are healthy?

I have read that you should put them in a container (it seems alot of people use the plastic critter keepers) and just keep moist paper towels in with them as well as PVC or someplace like that for them to hide in???
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Old 11-18-2009, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winyfrog View Post
What is the best way to quarantine?
How long should you quarantine to be sure that they are healthy?

I have read that you should put them in a container (it seems alot of people use the plastic critter keepers) and just keep moist paper towels in with them as well as PVC or someplace like that for them to hide in???


Before I post exact procedures, I am curious to know how everybody quarantines . It will help not only me but others to know where the hobby is at this stage in regards to not spreading disease such a Chytrid and the like.
I noticed in your sig that you do not yet have darts. This is certainly an important factor to research before acquiring them . What else have you read beside , or in addition to, the critter keepers?

Rich
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Old 11-18-2009, 07:17 PM
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Also, can someone PM as to why I keep having to log in everytime I visit the site, ever though I click "keep me logged in"? A 'cookie' issue perhaps? I'm a computer idiot and really would love to fix this soon. Thanks.
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Old 11-18-2009, 11:09 PM
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I used sterlite containers with sphagnum and some coco huts along with a few mag leaves in the beginning. I keep them in there untill fecals come back and make sure they are eating ok.
Now I will use the 2 gallon plastic containers (they are clear and easy to check on the frogs without lifting the lid). I use these with my own baby froglets, poke some small holes in the top, mist every day or every other day. Less f/f escapees than with the sterlite containers.
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Old 11-20-2009, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Frye View Post
Before I post exact procedures, I am curious to know how everybody quarantines . It will help not only me but others to know where the hobby is at this stage in regards to not spreading disease such a Chytrid and the like.
I noticed in your sig that you do not yet have darts. This is certainly an important factor to research before acquiring them . What else have you read beside , or in addition to, the critter keepers?

Rich

You are correct I have not purchased my frogs yet and am just trying to figure out the best way to quarantine.

I have read that people will create a small viv with plants, logs etc (inside a small container) an aquarium, critter keeper etc. They keep this going all the time- I would think that this would not be sterile enough for when you bring in new frogs. Maybe this would work okay for your baby frogs??? But that doesn't concern me at the moment.
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Old 11-20-2009, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bcs TX View Post
I used sterlite containers with sphagnum and some coco huts along with a few mag leaves in the beginning. I keep them in there untill fecals come back and make sure they are eating ok.
Now I will use the 2 gallon plastic containers (they are clear and easy to check on the frogs without lifting the lid). I use these with my own baby froglets, poke some small holes in the top, mist every day or every other day. Less f/f escapees than with the sterlite containers.
-Beth

Is it important to send in fecals to be tested? and why?

Do you throw away the sphagnum moss and cocoa huts after you have quarantined or do you wash them real good before you bring in new frogs?

Excuse my ignorance but what does f/f mean?
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Old 11-21-2009, 06:17 PM
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Quarantine is one of the very most important husbandry tools to ensure health and long life. It is mandated by all the AZA zoos, aquaria, ect. By universities and pretty much each and every scientific establishment.
Reasons for quarantine start with the fact we want to know if our frogs are healthy before we place them into a viv. We want uncontaminated animals in our nice new vivs, because in most cases if an animal is carrying a disease , and it has been placed into it's permanent home, that home is now also contaminated and can only be cleaned by breaking it down 100% and sterilizing the whole thing.
It is much easier to treat a diseased frog in a quarantine enclosure than a viv. Much.

Every single person should quarantine every single frog every time , no matter who you get the frogs from. If you get your frogs from me, quarantine them, every time.

Quarantine containers can vary and may be as simple as a 190oz round plastic tub , that i get from Josh's Frog, or may be a 'shoe box' style plastic container. Something small that will keep humidity up and is easily cleaned when treating frogs.
The container should have hides (film cans are great , easily cleaned or thrown away) , plant clipping, and I suggest leaf litter also. I use white paper towel as a 'substrate' because it's going to get tossed and shows poop easily for running fecals.
The amount of frog per container depends on size of frog, sex ect. When in doubt, set up one for each frog. But if the frogs were all hosed together by the breeder/previous owner you may only need fecals from one of the frogs, because most likely if one is diseased the other will be as well.
After the frog/s have been placed in Q your goal is to watch fro eating and look over the frog for signs of disease. This is also the time to start looking for poop to send off for fecal exams. Fecals are the cheapest easiest way besides simple visual exam (visual, which will help ID some problems, but FAR from all) to help ID disease issues.
If your frogs are eating, they should be pooping. Collect fecals samples to send to a vet with dart frog experience. Most all vets, scientists, AZA members, ect. consider three consecutive clean fecals a must before the frogs are ready for in-viv placement. The reason for three clean is the fact that many parasite life cycles will not always show all the time and parasites do not shed at continual /equal rates. In other words, you can get one initial clean fecal, only to get a second fecal testing positive at a later date. But three in a row will fairly conclusively show a 'clean ' frog.
At this point I'd like to mention that there are very bad parasites, and then there are parasite which animals can live long lives and see no issues. Hookworms, lungworms, and coccidia are three potentially very nasty parasites and are definitely considered bad parasites. These are the big three in my mind to be concerned about.
Proper set up of quarantine tubs makes it as easy as making two tubs for a frog. The two have the nice plants, hides, and leaf litter, all of which can be thrown away if the frogs are contaminated. two tubs are made up , one of which is used at a time. The day after treatment (whatever your vet's treatment may be) the treated frogs are simply moved into he clean tub #2 and the dirty tub is clean and leaf litter, plants , substrate are thrown away. repeat process after next treatment.



Testing these days can mean more the simple fecal tests. Chytrid testing is important to many of these new wild caught imports . I do not suggest any WCs fro newbies.

There is no downside to proper quarantine procedures. There is also no possible way to ascertain a frog , or any other living creature's state of health by simply looking at it and watching it eat. Quarantine is a huge must and should be done by everybody , every time.

Rich

Last edited by Rich Frye; 01-26-2011 at 03:49 PM.
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  #10  
Old 11-21-2009, 08:17 PM
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Awesome post Rich.
Way to many times you see people aquire frogs and place them in their new home becasue they are 3 months old or breeding pairs.
I think its important to quarantine with any frog, all frogs young or old.
Thanks for the great write up and your procedure.
Cheers!!!
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